The scientific research on Puer tea by contemporary microbiological scientists has opened up the perspective of scientifically understanding Puer tea and deciphering Puer tea. Everyone knows that the main difference between Pu-erh tea and other teas is the fermentation. Green tea can be called “non-fermented tea”, and oolong tea and black tea can be called “lightly fermented tea”, “semi-fermented tea” or “single fermented tea”. Pu-erh tea can be called “post-fermented tea” and “long-fermented tea”. In Pu-erh tea, raw tea can also be called “naturally fermented tea”, and cooked tea can also be called “artificially fermented tea”. Just from the perspective of “fermentation”, almost all tea varieties can be covered.
The protagonist of fermentation is microorganisms. Yunnan in the southwestern border of China, with its special orientation, terrain, climate and ecology, is a paradise among microbial paradises. Those ancient tea trees with large leaves and arbors that have grown for thousands of years in the primeval forests have always been accompanied, cared for, and fed by a large number of diverse microbial flora. From the root of the tea tree to the stem, leaf, and flower, there is no slack. Otherwise, how can we live so healthy and so long?
The microbial flora absorbs solar energy every day, cracks cell walls, decomposes organic matter, secretes amino acids, activates biological enzymes, and synthesizes theanine. This is fermentation. As a result, the activated biological enzymes are good for digestion, tea polyphenols are good for lowering cholesterol, stinoids are good for lowering lipids, tea pigments are good for reducing blood viscosity, pantothenic acid and cystine are good for hangover and liver protection, and pectin substances are good for reducing blood viscosity. Good for detoxification. And all kinds of comprehensive factors can inhibit the “target” of diabetes, which is beneficial to lower blood sugar, reduce uric acid, and prevent Alzheimer’s disease.
Why does the growth quality of Puer tea species change when they are transplanted to other provinces with similar longitude and latitude compared with Yunnan. The quality of each camellia not far from each other in Yunnan tea area is not the same? This phenomenon is the same as that Moutai can only be produced in a specific small place in Renhuai, Guizhou, but cannot be brewed everywhere. The reason and answer are the same: just because the microbial flora is different, and they are unwilling to migrate as a whole, they cannot form the same wine. fermentation.
The basic difference between Pu-erh tea and other teas can be known by the different fermentation methods. When making green tea, fresh leaves need to be continuously stir-fried in an iron pot to achieve the effects of increasing fragrance, shaping and keeping green. For this reason, high temperature must be used to deprive microorganisms of activity and prevent the oxidation of tea polyphenols, so there is no fermentation. When making oolong tea, the activity of biological enzymes is first encouraged, that is, after mild fermentation is used to enhance the aroma and taste. Immediately fry the greens and dry them at high temperature to stop the fermentation.
Black tea takes the fermentation process a step further. Wait for the fragrance and color more fully, and then use high temperature to quickly stop the fermentation. Although oolong tea and black tea also had encounters with fermentation, they soon shed tears and bid farewell to the fireside, and no longer interacted with each other. As for clear and pure green tea, it has never been dated with fermentation.
There is also a process of stir-frying and finalizing Pu-erh tea, but the time is very short. When stir-frying, the tea leaves are continuously thrown off the wall of the pot and cooled in the air. Therefore, the temperature of the leaves will not exceed the limit of 70°C, the microorganisms will not be killed, and the fermentation process will continue. Even the cooked tea made by artificial fermentation after the 1970s does not allow the temperature of “Wodui” to exceed the limit. more importantly. In the process of making Pu-erh tea, it must first go through gravity rolling again and again, so that microorganisms can enter the tea. Then it needs to be pressed tightly into the shape of cake, dough, tuo and brick. Make future long-term fermentation obtain a stable hotbed.
Among the various fermentation hotbeds for Pu-erh tea, the brick shape is more convenient for dense storage and handling. However, in order for the microbial flora to run smoothly during the fermentation process, the number of cake shapes is still much greater than that of brick shapes. The fermentation of Pu-erh tea after it is made is named “the second natural inoculation” by experts. It is also commonly called “post-fermentation” or “long-fermentation” by tea lovers. If the temperature, humidity and storage environment are appropriate, this fermentation will silently upgrade the tea quality every day for many years.
Therefore, even aged tea products will become permanent semi-finished products, constant changers, and living organisms under the hard work of microbial flora. The fermentation process can last for more than ten years or decades, forming a “aging” process from today back to classical. The other side of this journey is to gradually enter the realm of transformation, which is beyond words. Let all the young people can only look up from afar and envy them endlessly.
According to general aesthetic standards, green tea, oolong tea, and black tea are the most beautiful. Not only the color, aroma and taste are obvious, but also every link from production to packaging can be taken care of beautifully. Pu-erh tea is like many fermented products. Since it is inseparable from the microbial flora, it is difficult to “strengthen the wall and clear the wild”, clean and beautiful. Every step starting from the virgin forest is inseparable from the reckless encounters of chaotic grass and leaves, miscellaneous trees, insects and birds, stepping on mud and dust, old dustpans and old baskets, and rough hands and feet. It is in line with the “barbaric growth” that is often said now.
Until the final pressing of tea cakes, one cannot blindly choose the best tender buds just to get rid of the savage gas. Because too dense is not conducive to fermentation transformation, ordinary “rough branches and big leaves” must be used instead to form a support-shaped skeleton with stalks and gaps to create an original ecological fermentation space. It seems that it is still a kind of wild but not literary, rough but not refined aborigines. It’s still an unrefined muddy habit.
The long time makes Pu-erh tea like a journey of life, greenness is beauty. The maturity that has gone through hardships and experiences is a kind of beauty. The youthful and fragrant green tea can only smile for a year, and the smile disappears completely. Sophisticated oolong tea and black tea can only stand upright for three years before they collapse. At this time, on the contrary, the unkempt Pu-erh tea became more and more glamorous. The previously worrisome uncleanliness has been swallowed, transformed, secreted, and released by the microbial flora for many years, but it has become a great cleanliness.
In the corner where the tea was stored in the palace warehouse in the Qing Dynasty, the various tea products that were paid as tribute from all over the year have been turned into powder. Reduced to dust, out of control. Only Pu’er tea, despite being more than a hundred years old, is still healthy and radiant. In the spring of 2007, the “Longevity Longtuan Tribute Tea” was produced during the Guangxu period when it returned to Pu’er from the Forbidden City in Beijing. Many people have seen it, and it is a representative image.
The charm of Pu’er tea is the mystery of heaven and earth, which can only be known by tongue, body and mind, and time. So far, as a Pu’er tea lover, I still can’t generalize or even describe the fundamental charm of Pu’er tea. I would like to use this article to attract jade. Inspire those who want to know about Pu’er tea or who have “inherent prejudice” against Pu’er tea to have a deep understanding of Pu’er tea. Do not pass by the low-key “beautiful” Pu’er tea due to lack of understanding or inherent habits.
